Locs, or dreadlocks, is a hairstyle made up of matted strands of hair. This hairstyle became popular in the Western world in 1970s by Bob Marley and the Wailers. In this article we will explore the origins of locs and matted hairstyles and discuss issues of appropriation, culture, and discrimination.
Why do people say locs instead of dreadlocks?
Bob Marley and many at the time referred to his hair as dreadlocks. In recent years, many black people refer to the hairstyle as locs rather than dreadlocks. This change removes the word “dread” from the name. Locs is not only a shortening of the word dreadlock. Locs is a rejection of negative associations to the hairstyle. Within black culture, saying locs shows respect and reverence to the hairstyle and blackness.
What are the origins of locs and other matted hairstyles?
The exact origin of locs is difficult to pinpoint. It is easier to showcase different places where similar hairstyles existed. It is important to mention that hairstyles are a part of culture. Two people may appear to have the same hairstyle. However, each person may have different understandings and cultural associations about their hairstyle.
There is also a difference between locs and matted hairstyles. Locs are a matted hairstyle, but all matted hairstyles are not locs. The practice of wearing locs developed within black culture. Wearing matted hairstyles is not particular to any group of people. There are several examples of different people across the world wearing matted hairstyles. Locs is a matted hairstyle that is only associated with people of African descent. Even the term “locs” developed within a black cultural context.
Locs are a matted hairstyle, but all matted hairstyles are not locs.
Is it cultural appropriation for white people or non black people to have dreadlocks/locs?
All matted hairstyles are not locs. Matted hairstyles have existed in many countries. If a person is wearing a style that is from their culture, no. If a person is wearing a style from another’s culture one may argue that it is appropriation.
Let’s explore the various matted hairstyles and culture around the world. Please be aware that this article is not meant to be a comprehensive list but an exploration.
Matted Hairstyles in Europe
In Ireland, there was a popular matted hairstyle known as glibs (glibbes). The Polish plait or Plica Polonica was a 17th century matted hairstyle in Poland. The wearers of this hairstyle believed that the matted hair would take the illness “out” of the body. In medieval Polish–Lithuanian culture matted hair was an amulet or a tool to catch illness and aid in helping illness leave the body.
Matted Hairstyles in Asia
In India, Sadhus wear a matted hairstyle known as Jaṭā. A Sadhus is a religious ascetic who practices Hinduism or Jainism. In Tibetan Buddhism, the Ngagpa sect wear a matted hairstyle as a spiritual practice.
Image by Wen-Yan King – Flickr, CC BY 2.0
Matted Hairstyles in Africa
The Maasai and the Mau Mau of Kenya wear matted hairstyles. The Himba people also wear a unique matted hairstyle decorated with red ochre paste.
Matted Hairstyles in the Americas
Image courtesy of the National Archives of Canada, C-001875
Pîhtokahanapiwiyin also known as Poundmaker, was Plains Cree chief of the Poundmaker Cree Nation. He wore his hear in a matted hairstyle in a photograph dated in the year 1885.
Rastafarians in Jamaica are the most recognizable for their matted hairstyle. They refer to their hairstyle as dreadlocks or locs. There is debate about how locs became a part of the Rastafarian practice. Some believe locs and ganja entered Rastafarian culture through East Indian indentured servants. Others believe locs were an act of solidarity with African nations. Some argue that Rastafarians would wear their hair in locs to mirror the Mau Maus of Kenya.
What is the controversy with locs or dreadlocks?
In different countries, people with locs experience discrimination. Discrimination based on hair usually includes expulsion or denying entry to school and denial of jobs. This is a form of discrimination where those in power police black people’s appearance. The CROWN (Create a Respectful and Open Workplace for Natural Hair) Act (SB 188) is a California law that prohibits discrimination based on hair style and hair texture by extending protection for both categories under the FEHA and the California Education Code. It is the first legislation passed at the state level in the United States to prohibit such discrimination. Legal protection is key to protecting the rights of people who wear locs.