When you are starting your locs, there are several things you should consider. One of the first decisions you must make about your starter locs is how you will start your locs. The way you start your locs impacts the appearance and the ease of your loc journey. In this article we will discuss each choice you will make. We will explore how to start locs and loc types. Then we will discuss loc parting and loc stages.
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How to start locs?
The best way to start locs is to:
- Explore all loc types and decide what type of locs you would like to have. You can choose among six loc types that include Sisterlocks, microlocks, traditional locs, semi-free form locs, freeform locs, and wicks.
- Select a starter loc method. There are eight starter loc methods that include free form, backcombing, interlocking, braids, two strand twists, comb coils, loc extensions, and rubber band method.
- Select a parting style.
- Learn the loc phases to understand how your locs will mature.
What are Starter Locs?
Starter locs are the first stage of the loc process, where hair is grouped together to form locs. In the beginning of the starter loc process, the locs are not fully loc’d. As time passes, the ends of the loc will begin to matt and form the start of the loc.
What Kind of Locs Do You Want?
Each loc type has its own way to start locs. Your hair texture and hair condition also determine how you start your locs. Consider which loc type you prefer and the suggested starter method for that loc type.
| Loc Type | Starter Methods |
| Sisterlocks | Braiding with interlocking |
| Microlocs | Braiding with interlocking |
| Traditional locs | Backcombing, Interlocking, Two strand twists, loc extensions |
| Semi-free form locs | Backcombing, Interlocking, Two strand twists, loc extensions |
| Freeform locs | Free form |
| Wicks locs | Rubberband method, loc extensions, combining existing locs |
Number of Starter Locs per Loc Type
Each loc type has a range of loc counts. You should consider the number of locs you want when starting your loc journey. Your loc count determines the level of maintenance and time commitments you may have to make to maintain your locs. Root maintenance for interlocking or re-twisting are impacted the most by loc counts. Having 400 locs and needing a retwist every three weeks is higher maintenance than having 20 locs and never retwisting.
| Loc Types | Number of Locs |
| Sisterlocks | More than 400 |
| Microlocs | 150+ |
| Traditional Locs | 20-150 |
| Semi-freeform | 20-150 |
| Freeform | N/A |
| Wicks | 3-12 |
How Do You Want to Start Your Locs?
Once you have selected your loc type, you have to select a starter method. You should select a starter method that is best for your loc type and your hair texture to ensure an easy loc’ing process. Every loc’ing method has its own characteristics and time it takes to fully loc. Locticians and loc care providers often suggests a starter loc method based on their experience of how your hair may behave over time.
Method 1- Free form
When locs are started without hair parting or styling interventions we describe this as freeform. Free form describes a method to start locs and a loc type (freeform). Many people often free form by accident as the spiraling of curls matt together. This matting is referred to as budding, where tiny pieces of matted hair form at the ends of the loc. These small pieces of matted hair eventually form locs. Starting your locs using the free form method usually occurs with natural hair rather than chemically relaxed hair. We recommend you to start your locs with natural hair because curly hair locs better than relaxed hair.
Look
Freeform locs have a unique look. The final look depends on the person’s hair texture, density, and other factors. Freeform locs are generally medium to large-sized. Some celebrities with freeform locs are Bob Marley, Jay Cole, and Cam Newton. We identified these three as having freeform locs by examining the progress of their locs through time. We noticed that they all developed their hair into locs without any styling interventions. This allowed their hair to free form into a distinctive set of locs different from traditional locs.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Hair usually locs (or matts) with three to six months. Freeform locs continue to develop and take shape over time. Locs oftentimes combine at the root to create large locs. As a result, your locs will change as your hair continues to grow.
Method 2- Backcombing
Backcombing is a technique where knots are created on the hair shaft to encourage tangling and knots. These knots form locs. The backcombing method works with straight hair and curly hair. This starter loc method results in a version of instant locs. These backcombed, starter locs can unravel once you wash your hair. This happens because the loc has not loc’d. Over time, the ends of the loc will matt and form.
Look
Locs started with backcombing have a uniform look. The final look generally looks like traditional locs. The final look of backcombed locs depends on the person’s hair texture, density, and other factors. Backcombed locs are generally medium to large-sized. They can develop and grow into traditional locs or semi-free form locs.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Backcombing results in less unraveling than other methods. For some locs hold after installation. For others unraveling can happen. Hair usually locs (or matts) with three to six months.
Advantage
Hair that is not kinky takes longer to lock. Backcombing helps certain hair types loc easier. Unlike starting from twists, or braids, the backcombed locs look like fully loc’d locs. For example, two strand twists and braids form with the twist/braid pattern in the loc.
Disadvantage
There are some disadvantages to using the backcombing method. Backcombing may cause more stress and/or breakage to hair than other methods. Depending on the condition of the hair, backcombing may not be the best option. You should consider factors such as hair health, length, and if the hair has been chemically treated. We suggest you start your locs with virgin, chemical free hair. This helps you form a strong foundation for healthy locs.
Method 3- Interlocking
The interlocking method is a technique where locs are threaded through the root of the section of the individual loc. This weaving of the loc through the new growth binds the loose new growth hairs together. This method of root maintenance incorporates new growth to each loc. It is also known as “root flipping” or “latch hooking.”
Look
Locs started with interlocking are uniform and generally look like traditional locs. The final look of interlocked locs depends on the person’s hair texture, density, and other factors. Interlocked locs are generally small to medium-sized. They are usually associated with Sisterlocks, microlocs, and traditional locs.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Hair typically locs (or matts) with three to six months.
Advantage
Interlocking helps loc wearers maintain neat roots longer. If you prefer a fro-free, appearance, interlocking is a great starter loc method. We also recommend interlocking for people who may have an active life like athletes. Interlocking provides a neat look for longer time than other loc methods. Be aware that certain loc types like microlocs and Sisterlocks require interlocking.
Disadvantage
We recommend that anyone considering interlocking exercise caution when selecting your hair care professional. Interlocking is a specialized technique. A professional with bad technique will damage your hair and scalp. We would like to share a few warnings and good signs to help you select the best hair care professional for your interlocking needs.
Warnings
- Beware of interlocking that is too tight. Locs that are pulled too tight can cause traction alopecia resulting in balding. If you observe bumps or white dots on your scalp or thinning hair, discontinue your service with that professional.
- Do not interlock too often. Allow the proper amount of time to pass before interlocking your roots. You need to have enough new growth to properly interlock.
- Only interlock wet hair.
- Make sure that the same pattern and technique used to interlock remains the same. Inconsistencies may result in size inconsistencies within the same loc. You may also notice your locs look shorter due to pattern inconsistencies.
Good Signs of a Professional
- There is consistency in interlocking technique.
- They communicate a clear maintenance schedule based on your locs growth and needs.
- Locs have proper tension for interlocking but not painful.
- The hair care professional has neat work. They use clips and good parting to keep roots separated.
Method 4- Braids
The braiding method is a technique where loose hairs are styled in braids. These starter loc twists can unravel with during a wash. Usually this happens because the loc has not loc’d. Over time, the ends of the loc will matt to form the loc.
Look
Locs started with braids have the braid pattern in the loc. The pattern is visible if you inspect the loc. With time, the new growth moves the braid pattern of the loc to the ends of the hair. In mature locs, you may spot at the braiding pattern at the ends the hair. Overall, locs started with braids have a uniform look and resemble traditional locs. The final look of locs started with braids depends on the person’s hair texture, density, and other factors. Locs started with braids are usually small to medium-sized. Braids are usually used to start Sisterlocks or microlocs.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Hair typically locs (or matts) with three to six months.
Method 5- Two strand twists
The two-strand twist method is a technique where loose hairs are styled in two strand twists to loc hair. Often these starter loc twists can unravel with during a wash. This happens because the loc has not loc’d. Over time, the ends of the loc will matt to help the entire loc form.
Look
Locs have a uniform appearance and resemble traditional locs. Locs started with two strand twists have the twist pattern in the loc. The pattern is visible if you inspect the loc. With time, the new growth moves the twist pattern of the loc to the ends of the hair. In mature locs, you may spot at the twist pattern at the ends the hair. With time, the pattern disappears. The final look of two strand twisted locs depends on the person’s hair texture, density, and other factors. Locs started with two strand twist are generally medium to large-sized. They can develop and grow into traditional locs or semi-free form locs.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Hair typically locs (or matts) with three to six months.
Method 6- Comb Coils
Comb coils is a loc starter method where hair is twisted into coils. This method results in coil curls. These coil curls can unravel with during a wash. This happens because the loc has not loc’d. Over time, the ends of the loc will matt to help the entire loc form. Comb coils are usually used for short hair (less than two inches). We recommend this method for very short hair.
Look
Locs started with comb coils looks like typical locs. The final look of comb coil locs depends on the person’s hair texture, density, and other factors. Typically stylists usually use comb coil locs for medium to large-sized locs rather than Sisterlocks or microlocs. They can develop and grow into traditional locs or semi-free form locs.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Hair typically locs (or matts) with three to six months.
Method 7- Loc Extensions
The method is a technique where extensions (human hair or synthetic) are crocheted into hair to create locs. Starting your locs using the loc extension method results in instant locs. These starter locs will not unravel with during a wash. However, as your hair grows, the roots will take time to loc.
Look
Locs started with extensions have a uniform look. The final look generally looks like traditional locs. The final look of loc extensions depends on the person’s hair texture, density, and other factors. Loc extension locs are generally medium to large-sized. They can develop and grow into traditional locs or semi-free form locs. This method also starts traditional and wicks locs.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Hair typically locs (or matts) with three to six months.
Methods 8- Rubber Band Method
This is a starter loc method where loose curl hairs are gathered with rubber bands to encourage matting over time. The rubber band method creates the wicks loc type.
How long does it take?
The time it takes to loc varies depending on your hair type. Hair typically locs (or matts) with three to six months.
This section of this article is a stub. Loc Genius writers are researching this method. We will update this section once we have more information.
Consider Parting for Your Starter Locs
Loc parts create sections of hair that combine to create locs. Loc parting determines the size of locs and appearance of certain hairstyles. Some loc types are less flexible and require a specific parting type. For instance, Sisterlocks require square parting. The following chart details the common parting methods for each loc type.
| Loc Parts | Sisterlocks | Microlocs | Traditional Locs | Semi-freeform | Freeform | Wicks |
| Square | X | X | X | N/A | N/A | X |
| Half-circle | X | X | N/A | N/A | X | |
| Triangle | X | N/A | N/A | X | ||
| Diamond | X | N/A | N/A |
This section of this article is a stub. Loc Genius writers are researching parting for wicks. We will update this section once we have more information.
Understand the Stages of Your Loc Journey
As locs develop and grow, you will notice changes. This list describes the changes you will see as your locs mature.
- Starter Locs (Month 1-2)
The first two months of the loc process. Hair grows from the starter locs and begins to have a fro-fuzz look. Locs may unravel after washing. If locs do not unravel, the loc is matted.
- Budding Locs (Month 3-23)
The first two years of the loc process. The inside of the loc begins to take shape. The frizzing from the new growth and loose hairs of the loc begin to condense. Locs bud (matt) at the ends of each loc and form the entire locs.
- Teen Locs (Year 2-3)
Locs show a solid, consistent structure. Shedding happens in the form of hair balls at the end of the loc. - Mature Locs (Year 3)
Locs maintain solid structure but may show shedding or breakage toward the ends. Like loose hair, locs require trimming where weak points exist. Keep in mind, trimming is not mandatory. Weak points in locs eventually shed.
Final Thoughts about Starter Locs
Starting your loc journey is an adventure filled with excitement and questions. This guide was created to answer all the questions beginners have about locs. Although the amount of information provided in this article can seem overwhelming at first, we encourage you to use as much information as you need to make a sound decision. Your locs are unique to your hair, so the advice we provide is general. This guide should not be used to substitute the advice of a hair care professional. Instead this article is intended to help inform you about the wide array of options you have when choosing to loc your hair.