Locs are one of the most distinctive hairstyles in the world. Traditional locs are the most widely recognized type of locs. However, there are several types of locs. Each loc type has a unique look, characteristics, and maintenance routine. This article will detail the most common types of locs and their pros and cons. If you are interested in starting your loc journey, you should consider different loc types.
What are Loc Types?
A loc type is a distinct style of the loc hairstyle identified by the size, quantity, method to create the loc, and technique to maintain the loc. There are currently six loc types that include:
What are Sisterlocks?
Sisterlocks is one of the smallest sized loc types, where the loc diameter is 2-3 mm (toothpick width). We describe Sisterlocks as a loc version of microbraids. Sisterlocks is also a loc technique and a training program developed by JoAnne Cornwell. The Sisterlocks official website describes Sisterlocks as “a natural hair management system that creates tiny style-able locks.” The goal of this technique is to give people with kinky hair the ability to keep their natural hair and have more style options.
The Sisterlocks organization advises people interested in Sisterlocks to seek consultants trained in the Sisterlocks system. The Sisterlocks system has a three-step protocol to install locs:
1. The Sisterlocks Consultation- The Sisterlocks consultant will discuss your hair preferences and history to decide if Sisterlocks is the right style for you. The consultant may also install 8-12 sample locs to monitor the size, hold, etc. The consultation prepares you and the consultant with a baseline to plan your Sisterlocks installation.
2. The Locking Session– This session is sometimes divided between two days to manage client’s sitting time. The Sisterlocks organization estimates that the loc installation is 10-20 hours. During the installation, consultants install an average of 400 locs. The consultant also provides clients with a starter kit containing shampoo, rubber bands, and information on grooming and shampoo as locs settle.
3. The follow-up re-tightening session– After at least 2 shampoos, Sisterlocks consultants will re-tighten locs. The consultant will also provide feedback about loc progress.
Maintenance
The Sisterlocks organization recommends that clients schedule re-tightening visits every 4-6 weeks. This regular schedule helps consultants monitor each client’s loc progress. The average Sisterlocks clients re-tighten every 4-8 weeks. Sisterlocks consultants inform clients how often they will need to retighten based on individual clients.
What are the pros of Sisterlocks?
- Resembles loose hair or microbraids
- Can be flat-ironed or hot curled
- Not as heavy as traditional locs
What are the cons of Sisterlocks?
- Expensive to start (prices range from $850- 1,000)
- Difficult to find a Sisterlocks consultant
- Can’t free form
- High maintenance due to long retightening/retwisting bc of higher loc count
What are Microlocs?
Microlocs are a small loc type where small, individual locs resemble loose hair. Microlocs is one of the smallest sized loc types, where the loc diameter is 2-3 mm like Sisterlocks. The appearance of microlocs and Sisterlocks is similar. The difference between the two is that Sisterlocks is a branded technique with training and certifications. Microlocs is not. Some salons or hair professionals may have established their own certification for microlocs. However, we are not aware of one established set of training and education for microlocs like Sisterlocks.
What are the pros of microlocs?
- Resembles loose hair or microbraids
- Can be flat-ironed or hot curled
- Not as heavy as traditional locs
- Do not require a sisterlocks consultant
What are the cons of microlocs?
- Expensive to start (prices range from $750- 950)
- Difficult to find a microlocs consultant
- No certification- Training and knowledge unclear
- Can’t free form
- High maintenance due to long retightening/retwisting bc of higher loc count
What are Traditional locs?
The loc type that is most recognizable is the traditional locs. Loc diameter is 5-14 mm (pencil width to nickle width) Traditional locs are a medium to large loc type. Traditional locs use medium to large groups of hairs to create locs. Because of the large groups of hairs, traditional locs cannot be flat ironed or hot curled. Instead, loc wearers can use rollers, bantu knots or pipe cleaners to achieve curls.
What are the pros of traditional locs?
- Easier to find hairstylists
- Easier to retwist
- Can be started and maintained with or without stylist
- Can free form later
What are the cons of traditional locs?
- Not easy to style like loose hair
- No certification- Training and knowledge unclear
- Low-medium maintenance due to loc count (range from low-high count)
What are semi-freeform locs?
Semi-freeform locs are a medium-large loc type. Loc diameter is 5-14 mm (pencil width to nickle width) Semi-freeform typically start from traditional locs with medium to large groups of hairs to create locs. Over time, the loc wearer opts to retwist less often. Allowing the hair to grow out may result in locs becoming thicker. You can combine locs resulting in larger locs. Like traditional locs semi-freeform locs you cannot flat iron or hot curl locs. Instead, loc wearers can use rollers, bantu knots or pipe cleaners to achieve curls.
What are the pros of semi-freeform locs?
- Less root maintenance
- Can be started and maintained with or without stylist
- Thicker locs
What are the cons of semi-freeform locs?
- Does not have the uniformity of traditional, manicured locs
- Style has more fuzz than traditional, manicured locs
What are freeform locs?
Freeform locs are a large loc type. The loc diameter starts around 15mm. The size of freeform locs varies with each person and their hairtype and density. The appearance of freeform locs is less uniform. Freeform locs develop without parting. These locs grow from the natural matting of the hair without intervention or styling.
What are the pros of freeform locs?
- No retwisting maintenance
- Can be started and maintained with or without stylist
- Thicker locs
What are the cons of freeform locs?
- Less socially accepted
- Does not have the uniformity of traditional, manicured locs
- Style has more fuzz than traditional, manicured locs
What are Florida Wicks?
Florida wicks locs is a large loc type. The loc diameter starts around 2-5 inches. The size of wicks locs varies with each person. Wicks locs develop in three ways.
- Combining existing locs- Crochet needle combines individuals locs as one loc.
- Extensions- Crochet needle fuses natural hair with wicks extension to create one loc.
- Rubberbands method- Rubberbands fuse loose afro hairs as a large loc.
Wicks are not a freeform loc. If locs require any manipulation or styling interventions, they are not freeform.
What are the pros of wicks locs?
- Unique look
- Thicker locs
What are the cons of wicks locs?
- Less socially accepted
- Expensive to start (prices can go up to $1,500)
- Larger locs may put stress and tension on the scalp
- Difficult to find a wicks stylist
- Cannot be styled as curls
Overview
Locs are a unique hairstyle with many different looks and characteristics. Locs vary in size, appearance, and even maintenance. As stylists and locticians develop new techniques, locs will continue to evolve. At Loc Genius we honor the creativity and evolution of black hair. The variety of locs demonstrates the beauty and genius of loc’d hair.